When I was 16, at my father’s urging, I began reading exploration and mountaineering books. He was right – I was enthralled. All those daring tales of science and exploration. I was especially awestruck by the books detailing incredible climbs to great heights on remote peaks around the world. The most intriguing to me were the highest 14 peaks, the ones that reached 8,000 meters, or about 26,000 feet. I began to wonder what climbing to such great heights would be like, how one got to go on such an adventure, and, dare I say it, if even I might be able to go someday. A dream was born.
Thirty years later, my dream came true. Just two days ago I stepped onto the summit of Cho Oyu, the sixth highest peak in the world at 26,906 feet (8201m).
On September 23rd here in Tibet, my teammates, our Sherpas and Tibetan climbers all began our preparations at about 4 pm. We lay in our down suits and sleeping bags at 24,900 feet sipping oxygen through masks at a low 1 liter per minute as we made final preparations and rechecked our gear. We knew every ounce would feel like a boulder weighing us down on this our final summit push, so we stripped down to the minimum of gear. Then we tried to sleep. I laid there for hours listening to the mechanical inhales and exhales of air moving through our masks. My tentmate, Mike, sounded like he was sleeping. I listened to his air flow. Inhale. Exhale. It sounded like I was tenting with Darth Vader.
When all that was finished, and sleep still escaped me, I focused on getting my mind into the right framework. I recalled all the reassuring things that friends and family had told me. I repeated inspirational quotes sent to me by friends and strangers alike. I remembered all the critical climbing safety lessons that my partners had taught me over the years. And I matched each section of the challenging climb ahead with experience I had gained on lesser peaks all over the world. Inhale. Exhale.
We had to awaken at 10:00 pm to force some food and water down our constricted throats. Great – I might only get two hours sleep now before my one shot to climb to 8,000 meters. Relax. You’re ready. Focus on the sound of the breathing. Inhale. Exhale. Sleep finally came.
After about 1.5 hours of sleep, I awoke with a startle and tore the mask off my face. Momentarily confused about where I was, the awkward confinement of the down suit, and the thinness of the air soon reminded me – I was at 24,900 and the summit push was upon us. Time to go.
We loaded our packs and slipped on our harnesses while snow slowly melted into water on our sputtering stove. When the water reached a weak boil, we cooked one packet of ramen noodles to split, but neither Mike nor I could eat our half.
At 11:30 PM, we struggled out of the tents, paired up with our designated Sherpa or Tibetan climber who would watch over us in this alien environment, and we headed up into the darkness. Our goal was to summit about 5:30 am, and see the sunrise over Mt. Everest.
We began climbing the steep snow to the famous Himalayan rock layer known as the Yellow Band. Previous experience with climbing rock in crampons helped power me through this section, and we continued upwards. My headlamp lit up a swath about 30 feet wide in front of me. The stars never seemed brighter than they did there at 25,000 feet. I kept checking my watch and altimeter. We were moving surprisingly quick. The sky was clear above us, but far below, in western Nepal we could see lightening flashing inside some clouds far below us.
Experience dictated that we stop for food and water, lest our energy crash. But it was so cold, that getting open the insulated water bottles was a struggle, and all the food was frozen solid. Looked like we were going to be doing this climb on internal reserves. The altitude and the hours rolled by. 25,500 feet. 26,000 feet. Less than a thousand feet to go.
Like my Dad had taught me as a kid, I kept watching the stars and constellations to confirm our navigational direction. We had spent several hours going southeast directly at Orion. At first he was partially hidden behind the summit. But as he had risen higher, so had we. His full friendly outline hung directly in front of us, and now we began swinging more eastward, towards the big mountain face that drops into Nepal. 26,500.
The terrain was flattening. We were on the final march across the summit plateau. Mt. Everest was dead ahead 20 miles away. I could see a black spot where its bulk blocked the stars, but I could not see the mountain itself. To the left of Everest, over a low spot on the horizon, down below us, I saw…stars. We were so high, and the horizon so low and far away, that I could see a few twinkling white stars BELOW us. It was a rare and magical sight.
A biting wind picked up around 3:30 am which now made making stopping almost impossible. Looked like we would arrive at the top long before sunrise. With this vicious wind cutting through our clothes, there was no way we would be able to stand around for even twenty minutes, let alone the two full hours until sunrise.
The slope flattened more – years of climbing told me we were almost there. Altimeter reads 26,900. Switching my headlamp to spotlight mode, I see a small bump ahead with a sacred Kata, a silk scarf, and bits of food left as an offering. The summit.
Within the next minute, my thirty-year dream of reaching the summit of an 8,000 meter peak would come true. I felt tears forming in my eyes, and it wasn’t due to the wind.
I took the last few strides, and hugged my Tibetan companion, named “K2″. Surrounded by darkness, there was little to see, so I looked up to the stars instead. Spectacular.
One by one, my teammates arrived over the next few minutes. Hugs and photos sought to keep us there while a screaming wind fought to drive us away. By 4:17 am, numb hands and toes forced the decision, and we started down.
Thirty years may seem like a long time to work to make a dream come true. Fifteen minutes of wind-swept darkness may seem like a short time to experience your dream unfolding. It was totally worth it.
Whatever dream you select, pick a big one. Whatever time-frame you might plan on, know that sometimes it can take thirty years..or more. And my friends, please, please keep trying and keep believing. Because dreams can come true.
Jim
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Excellent blog post Jim. Thank you for taking the time and sharing your story/adventure/dream with all of us. It is very inspiring reading about someone moving towards a dream and then capturing it. You are officially a dream chaser and now you have pictures to prove it! Would love to meet up with you sometime for a run, winter 14′er, or something. Safe travels back to Colorado!
Ryan, Thanks for your support.
If you are in/near Fort Collins, CO, please get in touch for a run/climb!
Outstanding post Jim – really brings us into your summit night. Sorry you were so fast you missed the view!!!! Your maniac training really paid off.
Congratulations from the Florida flatlands!!! We knew you could do it and are so proud. It’s an accomplishment I could never manage…two flights of stairs and I’m done. Best Wishes for a safe journey home and looking forward to talking and seeing you. Love.
bavozulo navy talk for welldone proud ofyou nowIcan have abush on you ?
Congrats, Jim. Barry, Riley, Jake and I were all thinking of you, especially during this past week. Can’t wait to hear all about your amazing journey and for you to meet Riley and Jake.
Congratulations! I’ve been waiting anxiously for your summit news. My brother, Dan Creek, shared your blog with me and I’ve been following your posts every day looking for updates. Sounds like all the stars lined up for your summit attempt. What a reward for an incredible lifetime of hard work and dedication.
Aileen – thanks for following. Your brother Dan is a great guy – we miss having him around in Colorado.
Jim, you are an Inspiration. ’nuff said.
Hi Everyone
Thanks Ryan and Alan for your kind words. It was an awesome experience. We just returned to Kathmandu 3 hours ago. I will post a new blog soon.
For now, I have lost about 10-15 pounds, we have a summit experience to celebrate AND it is my 47th birthday today. We are off into the Kathmandu darkness to find food and beer!
Jim
Jim!
YEAH!!!!
You did it!
Congratulations.
Dan
Well done Jimmy!!!
Can’t wait for the stories and pictures!!
Congrats bud,
Terry
YEA!!! I am SO amazed and inspired. Congratulations on achieving a dream and thank you for keeping us involved. I am again in awe and truly will continue to reach for my stars.
Jimbo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
“aint it funny how the night moves”
Pano
YEEEEEE-HAAAAAAAW!!!! Congratulations! Pretty amazing. I can’t wait to hear the details . . . and your next goal in life! Well done!
Julian
Julian – great to hear from you. Thanks for the genuine southern Yee-haw! Since I got back, it has been a whirlwind. All is well here, speaking, writing and looking forward to the winter season of skiing & climbing. On to the next adventure!
This is SO COOL!
Congratulations Jim. I work with Gloria and she is so very proud of you. Wonderful words. I enjoyed them very much. Have a safe trip home.
Michael Thanks for your kind words. I am a lucky guy to have Gloria by my side. It is great to be back in Colorado. We all live a charmed life here.
Thanks for all the kind comments everyone. The climb and journey were both really challenging, but really rewarding too.
Congratulations, Jim. What an achievement and amazing experience! Thanks for sharing via your blog.
Linda, thanks so much, and thanks for following along.
Linda – thanks for following and thanks for the compliments. It was a great experience.
Congrats Jim!
As usual you continue to amaze and inspire. I look forward to your continuing adventures–especially being someone who doesn’t even like tall ladders.
CJ, thanks for your kind words. I am glad that you find enjoyment and enrichment through the sharing of these adventure stories. Knowing that people like you are listenting gives me the energy to blog, speak and write about these trips and the lessons garnered from them.
Hey, if you need anyone to go up a ladder for you, give me a call!
Hi Jim,
Congratulations on your summit and great blog.
I came across your blog in the Lowa website, which shows you in their boots.
I just bought these boots to climb Denali. But they don’t seem to fit my Grivel G12 crampons, what Crampons did you use?
Thanks
Shlomo
This has been the theme of the past few months in my own writing on my site. I love seeing it being promoted elsewhere in the outdoor community because it is absolutely true. Dreams DO come true- and they are more than possible to achieve. They don’t have to stay dreams. Do you have to be persistent? Yes. Will it take dedication, trial and error and a lot of sleepless nights? If it’s a big dream, yes, most likely. Is it worth it? Just like you said – yes.
Beautfully written. Thank you for sharing your feelings on this.
Gina – thanks for your post. You are right, reaching your dreams takes work. Stay in touch. – Jim